Three stone cenotaphs on the bank of the Khan river mark where the Holkar rulers were cremated.
These three chhatris, or cenotaphs, hold the remains of deceased members of the Holkar dynasty, and for that reason they are also known as the Holkar Chhatris. They were built in the nineteenth century over the ground where those rulers were cremated. The site takes its name from Krishna Bhai Holkar, wife of the military leader Yashwantrao Holkar.
The chhatris stand on the banks of the Khan, also written Kahn, a short distance from the centre of the old city. They are built of stone and carry statues of soldiers along with elaborate carvings of gods and goddesses across the exteriors. A Krishna temple was raised here for Maharani Krishna Bhai and forms part of the group.
Figures of gods and goddesses are worked across the outer faces of all three structures, with statues of soldiers set among them. The carving is the reason to come, and it is best read in low sun when the relief throws shadow.
A temple to Krishna was built here for Maharani Krishna Bhai and sits within the group. It gives the site its name and is still a place of worship rather than a ruin.
The chhatris face the Khan river, and the approach along the water is part of the experience. The combination of stone pavilions and open ground makes this the quietest of the central Indore monuments.
The site is a short walk from Rajwada Palace, which makes the two easy to cover together. There is no large ticketed enclosure, so the visit is informal and brief.
October to March for the weather, and either end of the day for the light. The stonework looks best when the sun is low and the carvings stand out in relief. After the monsoon the riverside is at its greenest, though also at its muddiest.
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