The earliest Khajuraho temple still standing, and the only one built in granite rather than sandstone.
Chaunsath Yogini belongs to about 900 AD and is the earliest temple of the Khajuraho group that has survived. It is dedicated to Goddess Kali, and it has one further distinction: it is the only granite temple here. Every other Khajuraho temple is built in sandstone, which is why this one looks and feels different from the rest.
There is no soaring tower and no dense sculpture programme. What remains is a plain open courtyard ringed by small cells, raised on a rocky outcrop. Visitors who come here after the Western group often find the contrast the most interesting thing about it.
Small shrine cells are arranged around an open rectangular court, each one a miniature structure in its own right. Many are damaged or gone. Walking the perimeter gives you the plan quickly, and it is unlike any other layout at Khajuraho.
The stone is grey and hard, cut in large plain blocks. Granite does not take fine carving the way Khajuraho sandstone does, and the restrained surfaces here are a direct result of that choice of material.
The temple sits on high ground a short walk from the main Western group area, reached by a path and a flight of steps.
October to March suits the climb best. Early morning and late afternoon are kindest, because the outcrop is exposed. In the summer months the rock radiates heat by mid-morning, so go at opening time or leave it for a cooler day.
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