Kaliadeh Palace

About Kaliadeh Palace

Kaliadeh Palace, also known as the Sun Temple, lies near the Kal Bhairav Temple and is one of Ujjain's most rewarding historical sites. It is a fine example of Persian architecture, with a central dome and pointed arches, and it belongs to a very different world from the city's temple architecture.

The walls carry inscriptions recording the visits of the emperors Akbar and Jahangir, which fixes the building firmly in the Mughal period of Ujjain's history. Around and through the complex run man made tanks and channels, so that water from the Shipra was led across the site in a designed system; it is this arrangement, rather than the masonry alone, that makes the place memorable. The palace was damaged during the Pindari War and was restored in the early 20th century by Madho Rao Scindia of Gwalior, and what stands today is substantially the result of that work.

Around the water palace

The central dome and arches

The Persian idiom is clearest here: a dome over the central space and pointed arches through the structure. It is worth walking right around the outside before going in, to see how the mass is composed.

The inscribed walls

Inscriptions on the walls record the visits of Akbar and Jahangir. They are the strongest evidence of the palace's standing in the Mughal period and are easy to walk past unnoticed.

Tanks and water channels

Man made tanks and channels carry water through the complex and make for the views the site is known for. They also explain the plan of the buildings, which is organised around the water rather than around a courtyard.

Planning your visit

Kaliadeh is away from the dense temple area of Ujjain, on the Shipra, so it needs a short drive and is best combined with Kal Bhairav Temple nearby. It is an open site and more of a walk than a darshan.

• Allow about an hour to cover the structure and the water works.
• Combine it with Kal Bhairav Temple, which is close by.
• Surfaces near the tanks can be wet and slippery.
• There is little shade, so carry water and avoid midday heat.

Best time to visit

October to March gives the best weather for an open riverside site. The period after the monsoon is particularly good, because the Shipra is full and the tanks and channels look as they were meant to. Late afternoon light suits the dome and the water surfaces, and the site is quieter then than in the middle of the day.