Seven storeys high, stone at the base and timber at the top, Rajwada has anchored the centre of Indore since the Holkars built it in 1766.

The Holkar rulers built Rajwada in 1766, and it has been the reference point of central Indore ever since. Seven storeys tall, it mixes Maratha, French and Mughal architectural habits in one elevation. You enter under a grand archway through a huge wooden gate studded with iron.
The main building is arranged around a courtyard, with ornate balconies and windows, jharokas, carved wooden jalis, corridors and galleried rooms. The construction changes material as it rises: the lower three floors are cut from stone, while the upper floors are built in wood. That mix also explains its history. Fire has damaged Rajwada and it has been rebuilt three separate times over the last 250 years. The State Archaeology Department maintains the property today and runs a small souvenir shop inside.
The entrance is the most photographed part of the building: a tall archway closed by a massive timber gate set with iron studs. It opens into the courtyard, which is where the scale of the seven storeys registers.
Balconies, projecting jharokas and finely cut wooden jalis run across the upper floors. These are the timber levels, and the carving is at its densest here, which makes the contrast with the plain stone of the lower three storeys obvious.
An evening light and sound programme is staged at the palace and is the main draw for many visitors. Check the day's timing locally, since it shifts with the season and the hour of sunset.
Rajwada stands in the middle of the old city, surrounded by bazaars, and the easiest approach is on foot once you reach the square. Parking nearby is difficult.
October to March is the best stretch of the year for the old city, and the early evening is the best part of the day here: the facade is lit, the show runs and the square is at its liveliest. If you want the building without the crowd, come mid-morning instead.
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