Rajwada

About Rajwada

Rajwada is where a visit to Maheshwar properly begins, because this is where the history of the Holkars is set out. The building stands in the heart of the town and is modest in scale for a palace, but Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar is the driving force behind it, and everything inside relates back to her.

The structure rises through seven storeys and shows an unusual mix of Muslim, Maratha and French architectural habits in one elevation. Within the complex is a small but remarkable shrine from which the old Dussehra ceremony used to begin, and that custom is still practised here. A life-size statue of the late queen is displayed at the entrance, and many other objects connected with the Holkar reign are on view inside. A garden lies along the western side. The palace stood in a dilapidated state for a long period, and recent renovation has brought back some of its original character.

Through the complex

The statue of the queen

A life-size statue of Ahilya Bai is displayed at the entrance and is the first thing you meet. It sets the tone for the whole complex, which is as much a memorial to her as a palace.

The Dussehra shrine

A small shrine inside the complex is where the ancient Dussehra ceremony began, and the practice continues to this day. It is easy to walk past; ask to be shown it.

The Holkar displays and the garden

Objects connected with the Holkar reign are exhibited through the rooms, and a garden runs along the western side of the complex. Together they make the visit longer than the building's modest exterior suggests.

Planning your visit

Rajwada is in the centre of Maheshwar, a short walk from the ghats and the fort, and makes the logical first stop in the town.

• Start here before the ghats; the context makes everything else easier to follow.
• Parts of the building have been restored and parts have not, so expect uneven surfaces.
• Ask locally about the Dussehra observance if you are visiting in that season.
• Allow forty-five minutes to an hour.

Best time to visit

October to March is the comfortable season on the Narmada and the best time to walk the town. Dussehra is the most significant occasion at Rajwada, given the ceremony that still starts from the shrine inside. Mornings are quieter and cooler than afternoons.