The great congregational mosque of Mandu, raised on a high plinth and built in a severe Afghan manner around an enormous open courtyard.
Jama Masjid is the largest and most imposing building at Mandu, and it was the congregational mosque of the Malwa Sultanate capital. The design belongs squarely to the Afghan tradition: plain wall surfaces, bold pointed arches, heavy squat domes and an almost complete absence of ornament, with the effect coming from mass and proportion instead of decoration. Work on it began under Hoshang Shah and it was finished by a later ruler of the same line.
A broad flight of steps rises to a domed entrance porch on the high plinth, and beyond it opens a very large square courtyard ringed by colonnades. The prayer hall on the western side is the deepest of these, a forest of pillars carrying row upon row of small domes, with the mihrab wall at the far end. Immediately behind the mosque stands the white marble tomb of Hoshang Shah, so the two are almost always seen together.
The mosque is entered up a broad stair to a domed porch set in the plinth. Pausing at the top before stepping through is the way to take in the scale, because the courtyard beyond opens very suddenly.
A huge open square sits at the heart of the building, enclosed on all four sides by arcaded and domed colonnades. The repetition of arch after arch around the perimeter is the strongest visual effect in the mosque.
On the western side, rows of pillars carry a great many small domes above the prayer space, with the mihrab in the far wall. Walk down one aisle rather than across it to feel the depth of the hall.
The white marble tomb behind the mosque is reached from the same enclosure and is an obvious extension of the visit. Its domed marble chamber is a deliberate contrast to the plain stone of the mosque.
The mosque stands in the central group of Mandu monuments and is usually taken together with the tomb behind it, so allow more time here than at the smaller structures on the plateau.
Mornings and late afternoons suit the mosque best. The courtyard has almost no shade and the stone holds heat, while low sun rakes across the arcades and makes the depth of the colonnades far easier to read. Cooler months are more comfortable for the amount of walking the building asks of you.
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