Chatries

About the Chatries

The Chatries are the royal cenotaphs of Orchha, raised in memory of the Bundela rulers of the state. They stand apart from the palaces and temples, grouped in a row along the bank of the Betwa at the edge of the town. A chhatri in this sense is a memorial rather than a tomb: a raised platform carrying a chamber and crowned by a dome, with smaller domed pavilions at the corners.

Seen together the group makes a single composition, the domes repeating along the riverbank and reflected in the water when the river is high. The individual structures vary in size and detail but share the same vocabulary of plinth, chamber, dome and corner pavilion. They are the one place in Orchha where the river, rather than the fort, is the organising element, and the view across to them at the end of the day is the image most people take away from the town.

The cenotaph row

The riverbank group

The cenotaphs are best appreciated as a set rather than individually. Walk the row from one end to the other and then look back at it from a distance, which is when the rhythm of the domes becomes obvious.

Domes and corner pavilions

Each memorial carries a central dome with smaller domed pavilions at the corners of its platform, the standard Bundela memorial form. Comparing one structure with the next shows how the type was varied in scale and finish.

The Betwa frontage

The river is part of the design. Reflections, the ghat below and the open sky across the water make the setting as important as the buildings, and the light here changes faster than anywhere else in Orchha.

Planning your visit

The Chatries are a short walk or ride from central Orchha, on the river side of the town. The visit is an outdoor one, so plan it around the light rather than around opening times.

• Allow 45 to 60 minutes, more if you stay for sunset.
• The ground is open and unshaded; carry water.
• Keep well back from the water's edge, especially after rain.
• Confirm current ticketing and access arrangements locally.

Best time to visit

The last hour before sunset is the reason to come, when the domes catch low light off the river. Early morning runs a close second and is quieter. The season is October to March for comfortable temperatures and clear air. During and just after the monsoon the Betwa runs high, which improves the reflections but can restrict how close you can get to the bank.