Indore's busiest temple grew up around an idol of Ganesha that was once hidden in a well, recovered in 1735 and enshrined by Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar.

The story told here is that the idol of Ganesha was concealed in a well to keep it safe from the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. It was retrieved in 1735, and Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar had a temple raised over it. Successive patrons added to the structure over the generations, which is why the complex reads as an accumulation rather than a single design.
Local faith in this shrine is unusually strong. The belief that wishes made here are granted brings crowds through the gates every day of the week, and Wednesdays and festival days see the heaviest footfall of any temple in the city. The deity's eyes are set with diamonds, and the gate along with the outer and upper walls of the garbhagriha are clad in silver.
The sanctum holds the recovered idol. Its outer and upper walls are faced in silver, as is the gate, and the eyes of the deity are made of diamonds. The queue moves steadily, so decide in advance whether you want a quick darshan or a longer wait at a quieter hour.
What stands today was extended repeatedly after Ahilya Bai's original building. Walking the outer circuit shows the joins between periods, with newer shrines, pillars and gateways added by different donors.
Much of the character of Khajrana is the behaviour of the people in it: threads tied, coconuts offered, requests written and left. If you want to understand why this is the most visited temple in Indore, watch the courtyard rather than the architecture.
Khajrana is in the eastern part of Indore and is well connected by road. It is an active temple, not a monument, so plan around worship times rather than museum hours.
The temple is open all year and busy all year. October to March is the pleasant season in Indore and the easiest for standing in a queue. Ganesh Chaturthi, usually in August or September, is the biggest occasion here and worth seeing if you accept the crowds that come with it.
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