An ancient Chandela fort on the Vindhya range, 1203 ft above the Bundelkhand plains, taken as an excursion from Khajuraho.
Kalinjar is an ancient fort in the Banda district of Uttar Pradesh. One of the eight famous forts built by the Chandela kings, it stands on the Vindhya mountain range near the World Heritage Site of Khajuraho, which is why it is taken as an excursion from there even though it lies across the state line. The fortress rises to 1203 ft and overlooks the Bundelkhand plains.
The name comes from Kalanjar, which represents Lord Shiva, who is said to have rested at this spot and destroyed the time barrier. It is believed that Lord Shiva is always present here. Across the fort you can find stone images of Shiva, Vishnu, Shakti, Bhairava, Ganesh and Bhairavi, together with carvings of birds, mithuna, apsaras and animals, set among the architectural ruins.
Constructed by Parmardideva, Neelkanth is the holiest shrine of Kalinjar. The way to the shrine is lined with inscriptions and carved images of Shiva, Ganesha, Hanuman and Kala Bhairon, so the approach is as much of the visit as the shrine itself.
A small cave containing a stone bed and a stone pillow, used by hermits in the past. It is plain and easily overlooked, but it is one of the few places in the fort where you see how the site was actually lived in.
The Gajantak Shiva image, also known as Manduk Bhairon, is carved directly on the rock surface. Koti Tirth, a vast water reservoir, served the fort and is the largest single feature on the hilltop.
Kalinjar is a long day by road from Khajuraho and crosses into Uttar Pradesh, so it needs to be planned as a full excursion.
November to February is the right time, with cool weather for the climb and clear views over the Bundelkhand plains. The monsoon makes the rock slippery and the plains hazy. Summer on an exposed hilltop at this height is best avoided.
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