The Scindia Chhatris

About the Chhatris

Chhatri means a canopy or domed pavilion, and in Shivpuri the word names a group of memorial structures raised over the Scindia dead. They were built under Scindia rule and are among the best known monuments in the town, chiefly because of how thoroughly they mix two architectural vocabularies. Mughal forms, the domes, the arches, the formal symmetry, sit alongside Hindu temple detailing in the same structures, and neither is treated as decoration applied to the other.

The setting carries the same mixture. A formal Mughal garden is laid out at the back, and the royal tombs of the Scindias stand within it, surrounded by large trees, green orchards and thick bushes. The effect is less of a cemetery than of an enclosed garden with monuments in it, and the planting is as much a part of the design as the stonework.

What to look at

The Hindu-Islamic fusion

Look at how the two traditions share single structures: Mughal domes and arched openings worked together with Hindu carving and temple detailing. The blend is the point of the monument, not an incidental feature.

The royal tombs

The tombs of the Scindias stand within the garden enclosure. Walking between them gives the sequence of the house and shows how each memorial was handled slightly differently.

The Mughal garden

The formal garden behind the chhatris, with its trees, orchards and planted beds, is part of the composition. It frames the monuments and makes the enclosure a place to walk slowly rather than tick off.

Planning your visit

An unhurried hour is right here. The interest is in detail and in the garden, so it does not reward a fast circuit.

• Walk the garden as well as the structures; the two were designed together.
• Dress and behave as you would at any memorial site. These are tombs.
• Morning light is kindest to the carving and the domes.
• Combine with Madhav Vilas Palace, which is also a Scindia building in the town.

Best time to visit

October to March is the comfortable season and the garden is at its best in the cooler months. Early morning gives both soft light on the stonework and the quietest conditions for walking the enclosure. The monsoon makes the planting lush but limits time outdoors, and the summer middays are hot and exposed.