Raja Mansingh's palace in Gwalior Fort, with screened music halls above and Mughal dungeons below.

Man Mandir Palace was built between 1486 and 1517 by Raja Mansingh. The tiles that once covered its exterior have not survived, though traces of them still remain at the entrance. Within, the rooms stand bare, stripped of their former glory, and that emptiness is much of the experience of the place.
The palace holds two very different histories at once. Vast chambers with fine stone screens were once the music halls, where royal ladies learned music from the great masters of the day from behind the screens. Below them, circular dungeons housed the state prisoners of the Mughals. Emperor Aurangzeb had his brother Murad imprisoned, and later executed, here. A poignant atmosphere of those days of chivalry and heroism still lingers in the silent chambers.
The large chambers are fitted with fine stone screens, and it was behind these that the royal women learned music from the masters of the day. Standing on either side of a screen shows exactly how the arrangement worked, with sound passing freely and sight blocked.
Below the palace are circular dungeons that held the state prisoners of the Mughals. Aurangzeb had his brother Murad imprisoned here and later executed. The descent from the music halls to these cells is the sharpest contrast in the building.
Close by is Jauhar Pond, where in the Rajput tradition the Ranis committed mass sati after their consorts had been defeated in battle. It is a plain tank to look at and needs the story to be understood.
Man Mandir is one of the palaces inside Gwalior Fort, so it is visited as part of a fort circuit, with the option of returning in the evening.
October to March is the comfortable season and the right time for an outdoor evening show. Daytime for the palace, and then the Son et Lumiere after dark, is the usual way to do it. In the monsoon the evening show may be affected by rain.
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