Chausath Yogini Temple

About the temple

Chausath Yogini is one of the oldest religious sites in the region, standing near Bhedaghat about an hour by road from Jabalpur. Chausath means sixty four, and the name describes the building directly: there are exactly sixty four carved figures of Yoginis, each in her own designated shrine, set around the inner wall of a circular enclosure. It was built by the Kalachuri dynasty in the 10th century.

The temple has not come through the centuries untouched. Its construction suffered severe damage at the hands of later rulers who set out to erase Hindu sites. What survives still gives a clear reading of 10th century central Indian architecture and of the place of Yoga and tantric belief in it. At the centre of the enclosure stands the Gauri Shankar temple, believed to have been added later than the original Yogini structure, and it holds Shiva and Parvati together on the Nandi bull, an unusual pairing to find in this form.

Inside the enclosure

The sixty four Yoginis

Sixty four carved Yogini figures ring the inner wall of the circular premises, each one occupying her own small shrine. Walking the circle in order is the way the building is meant to be read.

The Gauri Shankar temple

The shrine at the centre of the courtyard holds Shiva and Parvati riding the Nandi bull. It is thought to have been built later than the surrounding Yogini shrines, so it sits as a second layer on the same site.

The courtyard view

The high open courtyard looks out over the Narmada below. The view is one of the reasons the climb is worth making, and it ties the temple back to the river gorge at Bhedaghat.

Planning your visit

The temple sits above the river and the only way in is on foot up the steps, so it needs a little more effort than the other Bhedaghat stops.

• There are around a hundred and fifty steps up to the central area. Allow time and take them slowly in the heat.
• Climb early or late if you can, as the courtyard is open and exposed.
• Walk the full circle of shrines rather than cutting across the courtyard.
• Dress and behave as you would at any active Hindu temple, and check the footwear rule at the entrance.

Best time to visit

The climb and the open courtyard both argue for the cooler hours of the day and the cooler part of the year. The view over the Narmada is the other consideration, and it is clearest in good light, so early morning suits the site well.